Day 53: Fairplay, CO to Frisco, CO (40 miles, 2465 total)

Awesome. Majestic. Inspiring. Breathtaking. As Jeff said yesterday, it is hard to put into words what we are biking through these days. It is just so beautiful.

The wind died down by the time we were climbing into the tent for bed last night. We zipped up all the way in our mummy bags and prepared for a good night's sleep. According to Dale's thermometer, the temperature this morning was in the mid-30's. Brrrr!

We bundled up with as many layers as we could before heading out this morning. My fingers were so cold that I finally wrapped my bandanas around them! For the first 6 miles we were on a bike path that paralled busy Highway 9. It was luxurious compared to the treacherous conditions of yesterday.

The bike path ended in the town of Alma which turned into a much needed coffee stop. From there we started the official climb up to Hoosier Pass. It was 6 miles from Alma to the top and it really wasn't tough at all. That may be because the scenery was so fantastic, or it may be because we have had so much practice climbing by now, or it may be because the grades are fairly gentle. Whatever the combo, getting to the top was no problem and enjoying the view was mighty nice. Dale and "The Dutchesses" arrived shortly after we did and we all took tons of pictures. The pass elevation is 11,542 feet and also marks the first time we cross over the Continental Divide. Dale turned on his iPod and speakers and played "Top of the World" by The Carpenters. It was cheesy and we all loved it because this is the top of the entire trail for us. (Note from Jeff: I do not love anything about the Carpenters even at 11,542 feet) We will never be higher than we were on that pass on this trip.

You know what the top of a pass means? DOWNHILL!!!! We effortlessly glided 10 miles down the other side to the ski resort town of Breckenridge. (We all decided that eastbounders have a much harder climb as switchbacks are involved.) In our guidebook we read that we had to get pizza at Fatty's Pizzeria in town so that was our priority. We sat at a table outside and I was constantly putting my jacket on and taking it off based on whether the sun was out or behind a cloud. There is a huge difference in temperature between the two. We ordered our pizza on whole wheat crust and just as we were served, Paul and Annemieke pulled up. Just after they got their pizza, Dale rolled up. (His first stop was the internet cafe.)

After lunch we walked around, checked out a camping store, then started talking to a man in the street. Turns out he is the mayor of Breckenridge! I love that we keep running into people like him. They are so ready to talk to random strangers like us. It makes the trip more memorable.

Breckenridge marks the beginning of bike paths that go through many ski towns in this area. We were still going somewhat downhill and barely touched the pedals on the way to Frisco. Tourists and serious cyclists alike were all zipping away enjoying the 70's and sunshine.

We stopped by a market to get more fresh veggies for dinner, then it was back to the bike path to find our campsite for tonight, Heaton Bay Campground. On the way we passed Elizabeth and Amy, 2 eastbounders, and swapped stories for a while. We shared info on where to stay (and not to stay) in both directions. A group of walkers who are also cyclists also stopped by to chat.

By the time we reached the campground it was approaching 5:00. Imagine our dismay when we saw the "Campground Full" sign. Fortunately, Jeff saw a note to cyclists hung on the board. A westbounder named Shawn had already checked in and was willing to share a site. Hooray! He started on May 27 so he is really covering some miles.

Dale and Sid have also arrived now and we have done the evening camp chores of setting up the tent, cooking dinner, etc. The sun has now set behind a huge bald mountain and this day has been one of the best we've had in a while. I am excited to again sleep all bundled up and hope tomorrow's ride isn't too full of headwinds.

AKB